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Further information An exhibition of Per Kirkeby's work at London's Tate Modern (uk) runs until 6 September.
Both are green as can be, which must annoy Kirkeby mightily.
If smoke-free art is more your thing, then the medieval wall paintings of Vestero church are unmissable, their Three Kings riding in triple procession around a triptych altar. The real point of Laeso, though, is that there is nothing much to do there.
You can swim, or you can walk along endless miles of empty, sandy beaches looking for amber.
Danish Golden Age painters came here, and the Situationist, Asger Jorn – one of Kirkeby's heroes – had a house on Laeso until his death in 1973.
(Jorn fell to chatting to a farmer on a train and bought the house without seeing it.) Near the hamlet of Bangsbo, Jorn's cottage is arranged according to his theory of Triolectics – this included rules for three-sided football.
Happily, the house was recently sold by Jorn's widow to a Copenhagen gallerist who plans to open it as a retreat for young artists in August. Top of this category is a jolly lady in Osterby called Anne Julie, who makes art-pipes – burr walnut sculptures that happen to be smokeable.